Saturday, June 30, 2007

Korea





From June 27-29 I took my first Japanese package tour outside the country. It was a fascinating glimpse at the traveling habits of people who have very little time or experience traveling. Between each stop to an historic site or a group meal, we stopped at a shopping center or gift shop specifically geared to Japanese tourists. At the door, each member of our group was handed a number that corresponded to our tour. Then we were given a demonstration (such as the brief description of amethysts in Korean history or the taste-testing of kimchee) and given time to shop. If a purchase was made, the number would be shown to the clerk, who would then be sure to send a percentage of the sale to the travel agency. I'd heard horror stories of similar practices in Bangkok by tuk-tuk drivers and in Beijing by pedalcab drivers who are hired to give a tour of temples or historical neighborhoods, but who instead lead riders from one shop to the next, asking guests to buy just one thing. Hours later and having seen very little that was expected, frustrated riders are left with a feeling of being cheated of their time and trust.

I had similar feelings during my tour. For instance, although we were told that we would be visiting an amethyst shop, we were not given the option of just browsing or not taking the tour. Our cooperation was expected, as if we owed our time and attention to the shop clerks, and not the other way around, even when this mini-tour was not requested. When we were taken to the Lotte Duty Free Store, I asked prior to entering what time we would meet after shopping. I was told that my question would be answered when we reached our destination. So, I dutifully boarded the elevator with everyone else and rode to the 10th floor. Then I was handed a card that had my passport details (needed to make any purchases) and told to meet back at that spot in 90 minutes. This information could have been dispensed on the ground floor, but then how would I have been instructed where to shop?

Much to my surprise, however, all of my tour group participants made the most of their time and bought a great deal of gifts while I walked outside. No one questioned the actions of the tour leader. Given very little time outside of the country and an incredible number of gifts owed to neighbors, family members, and friends, they were all too happy to purchase what was placed in front of them.

Was I over-critical of their travel habits and the parallel system that had been created to cater specifically to us? What did I care that the tourists were directed toward overpriced items that would contribute to the bottom line of the travel company? Why did I desire to circumvent the tourist institutions that had been in place for years to cater to Japanese tourists? Why did I want to point out that we were paying 3 to 4 times more for our food and drinks than any non-tourists? Would anyone care? Especially because the tour group members work in the tourist industry themselves and are very conscious of how profits are created, did they not consider that we were being overcharged? Or did they not mind, precisely because they themselves participate in the same practices?

At every stop along the way, including the high-pressure sales at the kimchee shop on the way to the airport (which began with a quick taste-test that felt like an infomercial), my fellow passengers shopped. They bought goods at every stop and did so with smiles on their faces. They proudly discussed their purchases and only briefly bemoaned the amounts of money they'd spent on gifts (overall costing more than the trip itself for most).

Some factors contributing to their obedient behavior:
It was the first time out of the country for 8 of the 13, and only one had previously traveled outside the auspices of a groupt tour. This made her the most daring. The others were either used to being shuttled around or unwilling to accept the great responsibility that comes with traveling independently in a foreign country. With no language ability and no access to information (no internet use or access, no libraries nearby, no experience searching for travel information outside of Japan, no practice reading maps in another language), they lacked the basic skills required to travel independently. They also lacked the confidence to go it alone and hope that everything would work out fine. And given the tight schedule, they didn't want to leave that to chance. Plus, all of the experience and confidence that a backpacker in Europe might consider the essential building blocks to starting a trip abroad - all of that they could leave up to the travel agency. After all, that's what they were paying for. So what if they have to pay more for food and drinks, they are freed from the burden of choosing a place, making a reservation for 14, and making sure that the food will arrive in time to not prevent them from enjoying the rest of the day. Also, the company is responsible for ensuring that the food will be of a certain quality, letting the tourists avoid any bellyaches and complaints.

All in all, the tour was a carefully managed combination of all of the things that the guests wanted - a safe experience in another country, a chance to try new foods, the opportunity to buy gifts for the many people back home unable to share the experience, and time to escape from the immediate pressures of everyday life. Always in the back of their heads they knew that they had to return to work in only a few days, ready to face the demands of family members and neighbors. For a few days, they could be free from that, even though I saw them as confined in other ways.

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Nishizato




Yesterday morning, H and I took a quick trip to Nishizato in Oguni. While there we stopped by the Nishizato Elementary School, which has a very unique design (see it here http://www.town.oguni.kumamoto.jp/ognhtml/Event/Nishizato.htm), a geodesic dome with small rooms radiating out from the base. Currently the school has only 10 students in grades 2-6. There are no 1st or 3rd graders. The school has a taiko group, though, in which all the students perform. Just walking around the inside of the building makes me think that it is a very inspiring space, despite the overall lack of resources for the students.

Walking away from such a unique building with such a tiny student population, I worried about the fate of the students. It's not that they will be denied any sort of fulfilling lives, but simply because of their geographic location they will necessarily not have as many doors open to them in the future. If they stay in this area they simply will not be able to progress through the schools that will allow them to attend the top schools like Tokyo University. Without access to cram schools and tutors, the chances are essentially zero that they would be able to overcome geography to attend such a school. The only possibility would be for them to leave after elementary school to attend a private junior high, which could then prepare them. Of course, this would also require moving to one of the large cities - Kumamoto City or Fukuoka - and living with relatives that would push them in cram schools to catch up.

These thoughts make visiting such a unique, inspiring school depressing at the same time.

Sunday, June 24, 2007

School visit




On Friday I was fortunate to be invited by Charmaine Minami to visit Miyahara Elementary school in Oguni. The purpose the visit was to meet the students and teacher who will welcome Xavier for part of the day on July 17. As part of his trip to Japan, he's going to experience the Japanese school system. I know, just what every kid wants to do on summer vacation - go to school. Luckily, his visit will follow a national holiday, Umi no Hi (Ocean Day), when the class will go camping. Therefore, the students will likely be tired and will enjoy doing fun things in class. For instance, art, sports, and other things that should be easier for Xavier, even though he doesn't speak Japanese. The teacher basically wants to decide the day's schedule based on what Xav would like to do.

While the kids sat still for the English lesson, they exploded with energy afterwards, playing as all kids do. The classroom has a lot of animals in it (mostly tadpoles and a variety of insects, and colorful artwork done by the students. It's a bit old, and the room will likely be hot in July (no air-conditioning), but it's a great introduction to the life of a Japanese kid.

Notes: these students are in the 4th grade and are all 10. They just started learning English, so they can really only manage some basic greetings and some nouns and verbs. Yesterday we learned how to ask, "Do you like cats?" (or other things) and answer, "Yes, I do" or "No, I don't". That's it. There are a few kids who have more experience speaking, but not a lot. Some are wearing white hats and masks in the last photo because they are in charge of serving everyone else lunch. It's a rotating position that everyone has to do eventually. They all eat school lunch together in their classroom.

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

A Writing Day



The rainy season began earlier this week. Today was a prime example of my least favorite time of the year. It rained on and off all day. Luckily, this gave me plenty of time to sit at my desk and write.

I think we've been realizing over the past few weeks that we will miss living in Oguni and in this apartment.

Rice fields


These are the last fields that I saw this Spring being planted. They were planted June 13. This photo was taken while Amy Zader, a grad student from the University of Colorado, was visiting.

Hisako's new yukata


For our anniversary, we exchanged yukatas. This is Hisako's - stylin'!

6th Anniversary




On June 5th we celebrated our 6th anniversary. We ate lunch at Amafaso near Kurokawa.
Then we had dinner with Hisako's family in Koshi. We ate Chinese food recommended by Yasuyuki. We ended the day by playing Settlers of Catan at Starbucks. All in all, it was a great anniversary.

Saturday, June 9, 2007

Leonard visit

These days we're getting excited about the upcoming visit of Xavier and Jennifer to Japan. It will be the first time here for both of them, so we hope they enjoy it. The rainy season hasn't started yet, so we're a bit worried that it will start later and last longer than normal, which might put them here in the middle of a dreary time to be in Japan.

Oh well, I'm sure they'll have a wonderful time nonetheless.

The original post


I've created this blog to serve as a running diary of our life in Oguni, Japan. I hope to look back on this blog one day to help me remember the wonderful life we've had here. It would truly be a shame to forget such a beautiful place and the peaceful existence we've been able to enjoy.

To anyone who stumbles upon this blog, welcome. Since the blog is mostly for us, don't feel bad if sometimes it doesn't make a lot of sense.

This photo was taken in February 2007, in Minami-Oguni, Kumamoto, near a hilltop called Oshidoishi.