Student presentations at the Japan Creative Centre

The inaugural field study to Japan ended with student presentations at the Japan Creative Centre.

While most courses at NUS include some form of student presentations, these presentations are rarely shared with the public. However, in many cases the public might be interested in the knowledge learned by students in the classroom, since these students will become future employees and leaders.

In this spirit, I asked students to give presentations about the field study to a public audience, providing a unique opportunity to share their experiences with the greater Singapore community. This was made possible by the Japan Creative Centre (JCC), Singapore (Facebook page). Part of the cultural arm of the Embassy of Japan, this center hosts creative events of all sorts, including film festivals and art installations. Because of the creative ecotourism efforts we witnessed in Japan, our aims suited the Centre, and they welcomed us.

On Monday June 6, 2011, seven of the ten students shared their experiences in an event called "Green Tourism in Japan: Creative Approaches."

I began the event by describing the origins of the field study, its academic foundations and goals, the itinerary, and the knowledge gained. I also introduced each participant, pointing out each one's unique traits.

Addressing the audience

Describing the itinerary

Then each the student shared her trip experience (all women), building on the theme of creativity in ecotourism. Each student combined personal experience with academic knowledge to create a unique presentation. We used the PechaKucha format of presentation. For those unfamiliar, PechaKucha limits presenters to twenty slides and twenty seconds per slide. This style encourages presenters to choose images carefully and maintain a steadily flowing presentation.

Student presentation 

An engaged audience

Questions from the audience

Student responding to a question

Once the presentations were complete, audience members were encouraged to ask questions, to which the students responded. This made the entire experience, from the field study to the presentations, incredibly real for the students, since they learned that their perspectives on Japan could impact individuals outside the classroom and the university.

The event drew around 70 people, including representatives from the Embassy of Japan, JNTO (Japan National Tourism Organization), JTB (Japan Travel Bureau), JCCI (Japanese Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Singapore), and CLAIR (Council of Local Authorities for International Relations), as well as a number of educational institutions like NUS and NTU (Nanyang Technical University).

Overall, drawing 70 people to a first-time event consisting of student presentations (instead of a famous artist), can only be seen as a stunning success. I was especially proud of the students' role in showing the public the high quality of NUS students and programs. I hope that we can recreate this success in the future.

Incidentally, this is the event summary by the Japan Creative Centre as found on its Facebook page:

From the 17th to 26th May 2011, ten students from the Department of Japanese Studies, National University of Singapore (NUS), attended a field trip to the island of Kyushu with the purpose of researching the complex relationships between tourism and the environment. Visiting sites at the forefront of green tourism in two prefectures, namely Nagasaki and Kumamoto, the students learned from local entrepreneurs and officials who are addressing contemporary environmental concerns through tourism. Sharing with the audience their valuable findings garnered during this trip to Japan, it is hoped that the event will be informative and relevant, especially amid growing awareness to the relation between development and the preservation of the natural environment.

Representatives from JNTO, JCCI and Clair attended the event and contributed to give their thoughts on some of the questions raised providing much valuable information for future groups intending to visit Japan for travel and trips.

End of the field study

Day ten of the field study (May 26) found us in Fukuoka. We arrived by bus from Kurokawa the night before. According to one student, after nine days in Kyushu's countryside, Fukuoka was like returning to civilization. I gave everyone a few hours to rest and explore Canal City, an award-winning shopping center near our hotel.

Canal City (image source)

We ate our final group dinner in Canal City, where we shared favorite memories of an experience that I hope everyone will not soon forget. After dinner, we walked around the streets of Fukuoka, through some of the seedier areas and to streets with outdoor food stalls.

We departed Fukuoka around 10:30 the next morning, arriving in Singapore around 3:00pm, a world away from the farms and mountains of Kyushu.

Over the ten days, the students became very close to one another, forming friendships that I hope will last a lifetime. However, I also know that today's vivid memory is tomorrow's vague recollection, and that not all friends made on short-term study trips remain friends forever. People grow apart, and it takes effort to retain connections made over such a limited time period. Hopefully, the variety and ease of web-based applications available to students (Facebook, email, photo-sharing sites, this blog) will help this field study have a long-term effect on students, both personally and educationally.

For those who have read all the posts about the field study, thank you.

Kurokawa Onsen - part two

Day nine of the field study (May 25) began with another large meal. Grilled fish, spicy pollock roe (mentaiko), mustard-filled lotus root (karashi renkon), steamed vegetables, rice and miso soup were among the many items on the menu.

Breakfast

Following breakfast, everyone had free time until noon. This provided ample time for some to enjoy one or more additional baths, and for others to take a short hike beginning at suzume jigoku, or sparrow hells, east of Kurokawa.

The sign at the start of the seiryū no mori walking path.

This hike provides a unique opportunity to walk through the kind of temperate mixed forest that used to be common in Japan, but was replaced in most places by plantations of one or two species, most notably sugi and hinoki. A quick glance at Japan's mountainous areas looks green, but a closer look often reveals nothing buy straight rows of sugi or hinoki trees. These species are prized by woodworkers, but they are currently much more expensive than comparable imports, and they require pricey maintenance that has left the Japanese mountains to be covered with many neglected forests.

The hike from suzume jigoku winds up and down small hills, past dozens of tree species with a rich undergrowth. The path crosses two streams and eventually ends in a clearing above the forest, where eventually one can see clearly to the Aso mountains to the south.

One of two creeks crossed on the hike.

Shumin and I with the forest below and Mt. Aso in the distant background.

On this hillside we saw people picking zenmai, an edible fern-like plant that we ate the previous night at dinner. It grows wild and can be freely harvested for a short time in the spring.

Picking zenmai

The path then continues downhill toward Kurokawa Onsen. Turning the path into a tourist activity has been a goal of local leaders for some time, both to increase the number of options to visitors beyond only hot springs, and to increase peoples' awareness of the region's natural beauty. I am convinced that this hike is worth the effort, but given the visible lack of others on the trail, I am unsure tourism leaders have fulfilled their goals.

A fork in the road - either path leads to Kurokawa.

Shiitake mushrooms being cultivated on the forest floor.

Hikers with rice fields and sugi forest in the background.

The end of the hike brought us back to the town's information center, where we had a quick lunch and the students gave short group presentations on locations we had visited. They were entertaining and educational, as all presentations should be.

Student presentations

Listening intently to peer work

Finally, a group of young people who comprise Kurokawa's next generation of leaders shared with us their visions for the resort's future, including their ideas for what changes to make, as well as what aspects to leave as is.

After these presentations, we walked to the bus stop to catch our ride to Fukuoka. It was a shame to spend so little time in Kurokawa - barely 24 hours, although the average tourist spends even less in this tiny piece of heaven.

Kurokawa Onsen

Day eight of the field study (May 24) continued with an overnight stay at Kurokawa Onsen, located in the northern part of Kumamoto Prefecture. This hot springs village is among the best-known in the country and has fascinated me for over a decade. I felt it appropriate for us to eat a sumptuous meal and soak in hot springs, since we were nearing the end of our field study. Also, I'm sure the baths were especially welcoming to the students following their "cold" trip to Mt. Aso.

Since public bathing is not part of Singaporean culture, I am glad I delayed this experience until the end of the field study, when the participants felt more comfortable with each other. Given Singapore's body-conscious society, most of the students were incredibly self-conscious and hesitant to be seen by others, especially their friends. (One student joked that the best part of the body to cover with the tiny towel provided by the inn was her face, although she only thought this would be helpful when bathing with strangers.) Bathing is an essential aspect of understanding Japanese society - its unwritten rules, understandings, and expectations - so I felt it important for participants to at least have the opportunity to try it. I couldn't force anyone to bathe with others, but by bringing them to one of the most popular hot springs in Japan, I made the idea difficult to refuse.

Our bus dropped us in the middle of town at the tourist information center, which has brochures and maps for the village and all of its inns and related businesses, as well as some souvenirs. After exploring the center, I used a map to give everyone a layout of the land. I discussed the reputations and benefits of some of the hot springs, and I discussed the itinerary for the rest of the day. Half of the group decided to walk around the village, while the other half walked directly to the inn to explore the grounds and take their first baths.

Students walking around Kurokawa Onsen.

The most important item on the agenda was dinner, which began precisely at 6:00pm. Our inn serves dinner at 6:00, 6:30 or 7:00, but my experience working at several inns made me aware of the fact that it is always best for a large group to eat as early as possible. Since it takes more time to deliver and remove all of the dishes for a large group, they tend to take longer to complete the meal than a couple or a group of four friends. If a large group begins dinner at 7:00, it may not finish until 8:00 or 8:30 (or even 9:00), after which the staff has to clean a greater number of dishes, stretching closing time until 9:00 or later (sometimes 10:00). By starting at 6:00, a group has enough time to enjoy the meal without preventing staff from finishing work at a normal time (usually 8:30 or 9:00). This seems like an early dinner to many non-Japanese, but it makes sense within the context of the Japanese inn.

Like many Japanese guests to inns, all our participants wore their yukata (cotton robe) to dinner. This gave the dinner a special feeling, as if everyone came in costume or dressed special for the event. Dinner consisted of more than ten separate dishes, some with three or more items on each plate. Most of the dishes were seasonal, made of vegetables or roots or garnished with plants available in May. As one can imagine, dinner in the autumn is very different. Each new dish brought curious questions and camera flashes.

We left the meal incredibly satisfied, and afterward half the students left the inn, still wearing their yukatas, to soak in some neighboring baths. This is the real joy of Kurokawa, bath-hopping around the village to enjoy relaxing amid the trees and in the moonlight in outdoor baths (rotemburo). With presentations on the agenda for the next day, it turned into a late night, but everyone expressed satisfaction with sleeping on the thick futons after bathing in the hot springs.

Mt. Aso

Day eight of the field study to Japan - May 24, 2011

Our second night at the TAO Retreat Center was very relaxing. There is no traffic noise, and the cool air allowed for a deep sleep after the long tiring day. The female students became particularly close while at TAO. This was due in large part to the building's architecture. While the two men slept on the first floor, the women slept in the large open space of the second floor. According to the students, with no walls or doors to separate them from each other, they interacted in an incredibly open way, breaking down any previous barriers to their friendships. Many compared it to a student retreat and said it has become a cherished memory. This experience may also have enabled them to feel comfortable enough to eventually soak together in the hot springs later in the field study.

The day began with morning exercises, then another delicious breakfast.

Saying a long "itadakimasu" before breakfast.

Saying farewell to TAO.

Around 9:00am we departed the TAO Retreat Center, on our way to Mt. Aso. Exactly one week before this day the volcano began to release dangerous levels of gases, prompting authorities to close access to the mountain. In recent days the off-limits area had gradually become smaller and people could travel closer, as gas levels decreased. We were unsure if we would be able to reach to the top, but we decided to try. To travel from Singapore and not attempt to view the mouth would have been a shame.

Along the way, we saw the majesty of the Aso area, winding down the side of the caldera from Minamit-Oguni, stopping at Aso Shrine, and climbing up the volcano, spotting cows and gorgeous vistas along the way.

Looking down on Ichinomiya-machi, on the way to Mt. Aso.

Aso Shrine

Purchasing amulets

A cool breeze, and students claimed they were "freezing."

Unfortunately, we were unable to travel the last kilometer to the volcano mouth. Because of continued concerns about the gas levels, the road and ropeway were closed for the last leg of the journey. I had hoped to hike the last kilometer to the top, but was the case with the previous day's rain and our desire to participate in farming, nature's unpredictability prevented us from fulfilling our tourist aims.

"Danger!"

"The volcano continues to be very active. Because of the considerable danger, there is no entry to the mountain beyond this point."

Thankfully, we learned a great deal about the volcano at the (albeit outdated) Aso Volcano Museum. Some of the exhibits looked like scenery from a student-run musical - large puffs of cotton used to resemble clouds and mountains made of papier-mâché. In all, however, it was educational, as we learned how volcanoes form, what gases rise from this volcano, how seismologists measure the tremors associated with volcanic eruptions, what flora and fauna exist within this ecosystem, and more.

Instructive display in the Aso Volcano Museum.

After the museum, the students were excited to be able to do something they hadn't done for a full two days: eat meat. After a lunch of soba on Sunday, we only had vegetarian fare at TAO, so several students were experiencing meat withdrawal. For lunch, some people ordered Kumamoto ramen (which includes pork), with a side of fried chicken. Others ordered grilled beef. No one ordered fish. I heard one student complain that she eats meat for every meal, including fried noodles with beef for breakfast. Therefore, the few meat-free days at TAO were very unusual.

Walking at Aso kusa senri

After lunch and some free time to walk around, we hopped in the mini-bus and traveled on to Kurokawa Onsen, stopping only for a few photos at Daikanbo, a viewpoint on the north edge of the caldera.

Students braving the "cold" at Daikanbo.

With the temperature in the low 50s (10-13 C), it was the coldest some students had ever been in their lives, leading to a lot of jumping around and mild complaining. I had come prepared with a fleece and a windbreaker, but I discovered that many students simply don't own such clothing, since they've never been outside Singapore or somewhere cold. One has no reason to own a winter coat if it's never winter.

Next stop, Kurokawa.

TAO Retreat Center

Day seven of the field study

(after a short break I am back to resume my summaries of the last few days of our ten day field study to Japan, held May 17-26, 2011)

We were fortunate to be the first overnight guests at the TAO Retreat Center, located high up in the mountains of eastern Minami-Oguni town, near the Aso-Kuju National Park in the middle of Kyushu.

The newness of the retreat center was obvious as soon as we stepped in the building. The wooden floors were free of any blemishes and have that wonderful smell of new wood. There were no window coverings, and more tellingly, no doors at the entrance to any rooms or any closets. The only exception was the toilet and the bath.

TAO Retreat Center from the driveway. Photo: Chen Jiahui

Dining area at the TAO Retreat Center.

For years this retreat center has been a dream of its owner, Hatano Takeshi, who has been inspired by his encounters with others around the world to create a farm that emphasizes macrobiotics and permaculture.

Curry made with no animal products and all whole foods.

We began the day with stretching and brief meditation on the porch in the brisk, clean morning air.

Morning exercises

Then we spent one full day at TAO, learning about permaculture and harvesting some vegetables for dinner. However, many of us were disappointed that we were unable to plant any seeds or do other farm work because of a steady rain. This is where the ideals of farm tourism run up against the realities of agriculture, which is fully dependent on the weather. In our case we had a group of Singaporeans who had never done any farming and were looking forward to getting their hands dirty. In the end, they were only able to get a little dirty by pulling some carrots, plucking broccoli, and digging some bamboo shoots.

Gathering broccoli. Photo: Chen Jiahui

Photo: Chen Jiahui

Pulling young carrots. Photo: Chen Jiahui

Then everyone pitched in to help cook dinner. This is often a big selling point for farmstays and farm tourism, as individuals who normally have no contact with their food chain suddenly get to see how and where things are grown, then participate in the harvest and preparation of those items before eating them. For many, the food tastes better because they understand its origins and had a hand in its preparation.

Washing and cutting vegetables

We were taught how to make sushi rolls, but not with the standard white sushi rice. Instead, we used hearty rice with red beans mixed in, and instead of rolling in raw fish, we used veggies, nuts, and raisins: great, flavorful ideas that I had never thought of before. The students really enjoyed this work, from adding their own ingredients to cutting the final product.

Making sushi rolls

Learning to make sushi rolls.

The day ended with everyone eating their rolls, followed by what one might call an international party. During the party students sang several Singaporean songs from its National Day, and some students sang other songs. One student demonstrated a Japanese folk dance. Hatano's sons did some magic tricks and told some Japanese language-based jokes. In all, it was a wonderful evening.

Green Tourism in Practice

Day six of field study - continued

For lunch we stopped at one of the handful of soba restaurants for which Minami-Oguni is known. It was a light meal that really hit the spot.

Cold soba (buckwheat) noodles topped with grated mountain potato (yamaimo).

Freshly planted rice fields next to the restaurant.

Then we were off to Saconue no kaeru, a farmstay destination run by a couple and their daughter, Mika Kawazu. After high school Mika left home to work in Fukuoka, the largest city in Kyushu and a destination for many ambitious young people around the island. After a few years, she decided to return to her small rural village to assist her mother with a new business idea. Her mother had seen a television show about a German family that ran a bed and breakfast, growing its own vegetables and herbs and serving hearty, home-cooked meals to its guests. With Mika's help, the Kawazus created a similar business.


Now they welcome families and small groups of friends who want to take a break from city life and relax in the countryside. The guests are usually on their way between tourist destinations in the Aso region, visiting Mt. Aso on one day and Mt. Kuju on the next, or making day trips to hot springs in the area. So, they stay one or two nights at this cozy farm, either in the renovated storage building (kura) or the house next door. In the middle of the compound is an octagonal gazebo made of local lumber (sugi), next to which is a pizza oven formed with large volcanic rocks from Mt. Aso.

Mrs. Kawazu sharing stories and homemade foods in the gazebo.

During our tour of the facilities, we drank water from the mountainside. A series of pipes connects a water source to the house, allowing it to have fresh water at all times.

Students viewing a guest room during the tour.

After some snacks we walked to some nearby fields to get a feel for the landscape. The mountain air was refreshing, and something quite new for Singaporean students. Very few people in Singapore grow any of their own foods, even herbs or tomatoes, so this was a unique experience for my students.

Rice seedlings in a greenhouse waiting to be planted.

Ms. Kawazu discussing farming with students.

Along the walk we had a special treat; a quick tour of the place that makes the Kurokawa Onsen bath pass (nyūto tegata). This pass has been instrumental in the tourist success of both Kurokawa and the greater region since its introduction in 1986. Now in its 25th year, the pass continues to attracts visitors to Kurokawa Onsen, thereby having a ripple effect on the local economy, including the small business that makes the passes.

Sawing young trees into coaster-like discs.

Sanding the edges of the discs.

Nearly finished - after one side has been branded with an image and a hole has been drilled, the last step is to insert a string so one can wear the pass around the neck.

Afterward, we stopped for a bath at Mokkonkan and proceeded to our overnight accommodations, at the TAO retreat center in Minami-Oguni town.

Onsen at Mokkonkan

Dinner at TAO retreat center