Sunday, September 15, 2013

Kyushu Shinkansen commercial

A few days ago I learned about this fantastic commercial celebrating the completion of the Kyushu Shinkansen in 2011. 




I have followed news of the train line's construction on and off for nearly a decade. I was in Japan in 2004 when the first leg opened between Shin-Yatsushiro and Kagoshima. At that time I saw many news reports about both the celebrations and the controversial siting (and construction) of stations and tunnels along the line. Some cities wanted stations with the hope of increasing business and tourism, while others worried that the location of new stations distant from their downtowns (necessary to accommodate the long, specialized cars) would only speed the economic decline of the existing business district (possible in places like Minamata). 

More problematic were all of the people who must live in the shadow of the railway's immense concrete columns, or next to new tunnels and tracks suspended ten or more meters in the air that cut through communities, thereby not linking these mountainous communities to the rest of Kyushu, but only emphasizing their remoteness. 

Of course, the commercial does not address any of these controversies. It shows the inaugural run of the entire line from Kagoshima to Fukuoka. This opening ceremony was celebrated by thousands of people along the route who stood out in the cold to wave to the passing train. At the end the narrator thanks everyone and hopes that the Shinkansen will usher in a new era for Japan:

あの日、手を振ってくれて、ありがとう。
笑ってくれて、ありがとう。
ひとつになってくれて、ありがとう。
九州新幹線全線開業します。
一つになった九州に、新しい力が生まれています。
一つになった九州から、日本は楽しくなるはずです。
九州新幹線、皆さんと一緒に全線開業です。

On that day, thank you for waving.
Thank you for smiling (or laughing).
Thank you for coming together as one.
The Kyushu Shinkansen line is now complete.
A new energy is born in a united Kyushu.
From a united Kyushu, Japan should become more enjoyable.
The Kyushu Shinkansen, with you, is now complete.

Let me make one thing clear, I love this commercial. I watched it five times in a row upon first encountering it this morning. I cried every time. There is something about the spirit and creativity of people coming together for a public display (in any country) that pulls on my heartstrings. And as the train passes these thousands of people, I recognize those urban and rural landscapes. They speak to me, reminding me of hundreds of hours of cycling past Kyushu's rice fields, hothouses, baseball fields, apartments, and more. I recall my farmer friends and acquaintances. I also think about the general excitement that comes from the completion of most large construction projects in Japan, whether they are really necessary or not. There is a party atmosphere. 

But then I think back to the controversies and think about all the people who did not come out to wave. I suppose that is inevitable with any large project. There will always be people who receive no benefit, or even whose lives are made worse. 

What is more interesting about this commercial, though, is that it did not run on television. In fact, it now has more than 800,000 hits on YouTube, but the celebration was not aired on normal television, as was originally intended. The reason is that this opening ceremony took place on March 12, 2011, one day after the Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami. As the Tohoku region was reeling with aftershocks, searching for lost loved ones in the rubble, and keeping an eye on the deteriorating situation at the Dai-ichi Nuclear Power Plant in Fukushima, it was deemed inappropriate for people in Kyushu to be exhibiting so much ... joy. 

That does not deteriorate my enjoyment of the video, but the broader perspective of the timing of its creation is fascinating, don't you agree? 

By the way, the theme song in the CM is "Boom," by Maia Hirasawa, a half-Japanese, half-Swedish singer/songwriter. What a rockin' song! Gotta love a band with a tuba.

Monday, July 1, 2013

Wines and Walks

The region around Margaret River features two things we enjoy, wineries and fantastic places to walk.

In the two days we spent in the area we visited four wineries, tasting more than 20 wines in total. We stopped at Windance, Vasse Felix, Xanadu, and Churchview. Windance is noted for its Shiraz, so after tasting a range of its wines and chatting with the owner, we bought a bottle to take home. We will save it for a special occasion.


Like Windance, Churchview was a relatively small outfit. However, the other two looked immense and a bit pretentious. The wines were excellent everywhere, but one sensed the large scale of operations at Vasse Felix and Xanadu had turned tasting into as issue of size over substance. Their grounds and tasting halls are immense, with carefully manicured lawns. Vasse Felix even has a small pond with artwork interspersed. I am sure it makes for a lovely backdrop to weddings and other events, but is it still about the wine?


Churchview

Vasse Felix

We also had some great walks, including along the Cape to Cape Walk and in the Boranup Karri Forest, where we hiked among many species of eucalyptus trees. While there we realized how much we missed our after dinner walks in Boulder. That is just not very pleasant in Singapore.

Boranup Karri Forest




On our way home we stopped by Freemantle for dinner. We just missed the sunset, but still enjoyed some lingering daylight as we walked along South Beach. Then we headed to Cappuccino Strip, a hub of cafes, bars and restaurants. I ate surf and turf while H had some pasta. She was not impressed with the spaghetti, but the steak was fantastic.

Enjoying the last bit of daylight in Australia

Cider anyone?

Cappuccino Strip feels a bit like New Orleans

Surf and turf

Spaghetti carbonara

Then we returned to the airport and flew home. It was a short trip - Wed night to Sat night - but we thoroughly enjoyed our first trip to Perth.




Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Morning in Perth

We did not spend much time in Perth, but we enjoyed the few hours we were there. It seems like a manageable size, with great parks. One city park, King's Park, is actually a bit larger than NYC's Central Park. Too bad we didn't have time to visit. Maybe next time we can go for a long walk or rent bicycles there.

We walked around for about an hour, splitting our energy between shopping and just soaking in the atmosphere (and clean air). Perth seems to have a high quality of life, what with all the parks, good restaurants, good public transportation, and reasonable working hours. We could imagine ourselves there, although it would mean another 5 hour flight farther removed from most of the rest of the world. People we talked to all admitted to using Singapore as their international air hub, to reach everywhere but the rest of Australia and NZ.

Below are some photos from our morning walk around Perth and our drive south through Busselton to Margaret River, where we saw a stunning sunset.

The Perth skyline

Looking across the Swan River from the CBD

The view West from the CBD toward King's Park

A playful contrast of architectural styles in the CBD

Folks lining up for lunch at Jamie Oliver's new restaurant, which just opened days before

A curious bird at Busselton

Late lunch of fish and chips at the Busselton Jetty

Busselton Jetty - nearly 2km long!

Sunset near Margaret River

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Cape Naturaliste, Western Australia

It has been awhile since my last post, and given this blog's original purpose - to remind us of where we have been - it is time to add a post or two of recent outings, before we forget. In fact, during our latest trip (to Western Australia last week), we struggled to recall the places we had been in the past year. I do not think the only reason to travel is to create memories. We don't have to remember everything we do, see, and eat. It is enough for travel to enrich the now. However, it is also enjoyable to curate photographs and memories and assemble them to share.

Last week we took a short break from Singapore (and just at the perfect time to avoid some of the worst smog/haze the country has ever experienced). We took a 5 hour flight to Perth, Australia. The goal was to chill, both literally because it is now winter in Australia, and figuratively since we intended only to do some walking and wine tasting. I had just sent a paper to a journal and wanted to reset. We had just celebrated our 12th anniversary and wanted to do something new. Off to Perth! 

Among the things we will likely remember was a hike around Cape Naturaliste, facing the Indian Ocean. These photographs can never do justice to the actual place, but they give some sense of what it is like. 

Our first view of the Indian Ocean after a short walk from the parking lot.
Deep blue waters off the coast of Western Australia
We had the beach to ourselves 
Rocks jutting from the beach as if saluting the weather.
Crystal clear water

Not to be outdone by the water, the sky answered with its own gorgeous blue.

Following our hike, we ate spinach soup and an endive, arugula, caramelized onion tart at Bunker's beach cafe

After lunch we visited two wineries for a tasting. The dark red soil contrasted with the blue sky and surprisingly (for winter) green foliage and grass to awaken the senses. I think it made the wine taste better.

Thursday, January 10, 2013

Chiang Mai cooking class

One of our favorite activities while traveling is to take a cooking class. While I recognize the irony that we only do this in the developing world (Vietnam, Thailand), I can only conclude that a) such classes are not as visible and/or popular in places like Prague and b) we are attracted to certain places in part because of the food, so we search for these opportunities.

In Chiang Mai we found dozens of cooking schools to choose from, and we decided on Thai Cottage Home Cookery School - quite a long name for such a tiny business.


Transportation to the cooking school - pick-up service

Our class began with a walk to a local market, where our teacher guided us through the various stalls and explained some of the items we would use. 

Our chef introducing us to ingredients necessary for Thai food 
So many fresh vegetables

Galanga and ginger, essentials in Thai cuisine

Explaining white eggplants and other items I can no longer identify


Then she left us to explore on our own for about 20 minutes while she collected what we would need for our green curry, pad thai, tom yam gum, papaya salad, and spring rolls. While at the market, we could not help photographing the rich colors and textures of the produce, rice, meat, and other items we typically see packaged in plastic. The display of ingredients is clearly an art form designed to attract customers.


Appetizing displays of rice

Fish grilling at the market


Coconuts ready to be cut open and drunk



The meat counter is never as appetizing as the fruits and vegetables to me

Customers getting fresh fruit juice


Another cooking class right behind ours



Even desserts, with freshly grated coconut, are for sale at the market




After the market we returned to the school and began chopping and frying vegetables. The greatest surprise of this experience was just how quickly most Thai dishes can come together. In fact, we felt a bit frustrated at times waiting for something to do between courses. The entire process usually involves heating some oil, flash frying some chicken, prawns, and/or vegetables, then adding some liquids to make the sauce. Done. Eat.

Walking back to school with our ingredients

Everything we need

Assembling the ingredients

Adding sauces

Ready to cook

With a large wok and the right ingredients Thai food is very easy to prepare. One thing I like about cooking schools like this one is the emphasis on how simple the cuisine can be to prepare. It takes the mystery and challenge out of it and makes it accessible.

Making soup

Finished hot and sour soup

Everything assembled for pad Thai


H's completed sweet and sour chicken

Papaya salad

Ready to make an egg roll


Frying egg rolls

Complete meal of egg rolls, papaya salad, green curry and rice - fantastic!