Chiang Mai, Thailand

Our first break of the new year came in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Before this trip we had only been to Thailand once, to the island of Phuket, which I am not fond of. This trip was more my style - backpacking in an old city, trekking into the foothills, staying one night on a mountaintop with no electricity or flush toilets, and taking a cooking class. I promise I did not twist H's arm to agree to do this, and she assures me that she likes this kind of travel - less time in resorts and more time backpacking and "roughing it." She is not about to agree to a three month trek across Central Asia, but it's a start.

Waking to a view of the low-slung houses of old Chiang Mai

The signs of a backpacker haven

Chiang Mai is a backpacker's paradise, with services for all of your needs. We spent our first day walking around, enjoying the cooler weather, getting a massage, and eating good food. Then we booked an overnight excursion to trek in the foothills.

Our truck and fellow passengers

The next morning we jumped into the back of a small pickup truck with a topper and headed out of town with six others (from Germany and Austria). The trip began with two stops along the way - one at an orchid farm and another at an elephant camp. You cannot opt out of such side stops, since the guide earns some extra money by taking tourists to these places.

Typically, the guide earns a commission when one of his (all the guides we saw were men) tourists purchases an item at the gift shop. Upon arrival to the orchid farm, we were welcomed with a cut orchid pinned by a woman working there. This kind gesture doubles as a way of indicating the guide we are with, since each flower is pinned in a segment of a cut straw that has a colored piece of tape on it. All members of one group are given the same color of tape, and if one of us buys an orchid t-shirt or pendant, the sales clerk can see which group we are with and compensate the guide accordingly. This diminishes the hospitality one feels when receiving a free flower at the entrance. The impression resembles that of receiving a lei in Hawai'i. However, it is an effective and subtle way to channel commissions back to the appropriate guide.

Orchid farm

Drinking straws cut into sections and fitted with a safety pin and colored tape. Each straw functions as a tiny vase to hold an orchid attached at the orchid farm entrance to each visitor's shirt. The "gift" feels like a show of Thai hospitality but doubles as a way to identify which tour group we belong to.

The next stop was at an elephant camp. Here, tourists ride elephants from one camp to another along a road. It is not as thrilling or adventurous as riding through a forest or crossing a river, but for many it is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The highlight for our group was the adorable baby elephant that accompanied us. We bought some bananas from the guide to feed the elephants. I'm sure the price was marked up, but we couldn't see anything wrong with the system, and the animals didn't seem abused. The baby stepped on H's foot (video here) when she got too close to its mother!

Enjoying the ride

The view from atop the elephant

Our gentle giant

Lunch following the ride

The highlight was the trek into the mountains, a three to four hour hike nearly all vertical through thick undergrowth. Along the way, one member of a trailing group was bitten by a snake. This made for some tense moments, with our guide sucking out poison and then helping the tourists, from Spain, back down the mountain to the nearest hospital. We met him the next day, and he seemed better. The snake had not been poisonous.

Moments after the snake bite

At the end of the hike was a village inhabited by refugees from Myanmar who have been there for decades. In a show of assistance, several years ago the Thai government agreed to provide safe drinking water for them if they agreed not to grow illegal drugs. This water makes it easier for visitors like us to stay the night. Having no electricity becomes a positive attribute, with our guide explaining we would stay in a "million star hotel." The sky was especially clear that night, and I would happily return to see the million stars again.

The mountaintop village at the end of our trek

Fantastic views from the village

Our accommodations

The view from our deck

The river where we took an afternoon break is visible in the distance

The village school

Sunset

Story time around the fire

Waking to a cool morning

Gorgeous misty mountain morning

This indoor/outdoor kitchen reminded H of her grandmother's old kitchen in Japan - dirt floor and all.

Breakfast

The walls of our hut, woven from dried bamboo

Kusatsu Onsen getaway

One of the greatest benefits of H's position is our ability to fly easily and cheaply. At the last minute, if we have time from work, we can pop over to Japan to enjoy some food, sights, and shopping.

With a desire to escape the heat, visit onsen, and hike, we headed to Kusatsu for a few days. On our first night we met an old friend at a fantastic izakaya. We arrived early, when only a handful of tables were occupied. Over time, more customers arrived, filling tables and gradually raising the volume of conversation. By the time we left, the place was packed with folks enjoying a cold beer, excellent seafood and other dishes, and the company of friends.

Izakaya at 6:00pm

As delicious as it was beautiful

The next morning we awoke early and walked to Tsukiji market, only to find it closed for the day. I have been once before, but it would have been H's first time. We stopped at an udon and gyūdon fast food restaurant for breakfast, instead of having fresh sashimi as expected. It hit the spot.

Morning in Tsukiji

Breakfast of gyūdon

Then we boarded a train for Kusatsu. Upon arrival we ate lunch and walked around the Yubatake, or "hot water field," in the center of town, where the hot springs for the area inns is cooled and distributed.

The snacks and bento cart on the train

Soba, karaage, and rice for lunch

Yubatake

Clever signs embedded in the pavement directing tourists to Yubatake (left) and Jizōnoyu (right)

The real highlight of the trip for me was our full-day hike the next day from near the peak of Mt. Shirane all the way back to the center of Kusatsu. We had gorgeous weather, with clear blue skies. Luckily the hike was mostly downhill; unluckily we were in bear country. At the top we stopped in the information center, which featured trail and weather conditions. There was also a whiteboard that indicated recent bear sightings. We were instructed to purchase a bell to use while walking. The sound is enough to scare off a bear, to provide it warning that we are coming. The last thing you want to do is startle a bear. The views along the hike were stunning, and we paused frequently to soak it all in.

Yugama crater lake, near the summit of Mt. Shirane

Expansive views all along the hike

The path cuts through the forest beginning halfway down

Beware of bears (Kuma shutsubotsu chūi, Gunma Pref.)

Notice: In order to avoid a bear encounter, please walk with something that makes a sound, like a bell or a radio.

Back in town we soaked our tired feet in the foot bath next to Yubatake, then feasted at a grilled beef restaurant. Cold beer and tender beef - nothing beats it.

Adorable couple enjoying ice cream 

Yakiniku dinner

We spent the night at a tiny minshuku with a bath we could share. The whole trip brought back memories of our year in Oguni. The next day we traveled back to Tokyo, then Narita, then Singapore, all in a day. We were exhausted, but completely satisfied.

Heidelberg

I lived in Germany in a past life. I was 20 years old and I resided in Furth, a small city near Nuremberg. I was only there for a few weeks, but I lived in an apartment and had a job. So, I don't think of it as just passing through; I lived there. Thanks to a friend who had the right connections, I made gummy bears in Germany in the summer before my junior year in college. How many people get to say that? Then again, how many people would want to be able to say such a thing?

I say it was a past life because it feels so long ago I have virtually no memories of it. I remember a few things very clearly - the angle of the ceiling in the kitchen, the engineer at my factory who drank two beers nearly every day in the cafeteria, attending a Beach Boys concert (they were old then; now they are going on an Asia tour and will be in Singapore soon!). I think I have so few memories because 1) I took very few photos. I had a terrible 110 camera and never carried it around. 2) I did not keep a journal. Needless to say, there were no blogs or social networking sites for me to track my past for quick future recall. 3) I spent the summer with someone with whom I seldom communicated at the time or in the months and years immediately since. I have a pet theory that part of the reason some memories are so vivid is because we recall them through sharing. Then, the memory becomes a combination of the actual event and the multiple recallings and retellings over the years. 

This year I was able to return to Germany for the first time since the summer of 1993. Since my memories are so vague, I have no point of comparison, nothing to be spoiled by inevitable changes. Even better was the fact that H joined me - her first time. Of course, we made comparisons: stretches of road reminded us of Finland or even Iowa. But for the most part, it was a clean set of new memories, which thanks to this post and H, I may remember in 19 years.

This time we were hosted by friends we met in Boulder, who live near Heidelberg. These are some photos of the wonderful few days we spent with them in and around Heidelberg. 

Wonderful selection of breads available at a shop near our friends' place. Great breakfast!

The #5 train, which operates in a loop between Mannheim, Heidelberg and other cities.

I needed the middle t-shirt last time I was in Germany, but not this time.

Enjoying the weather in front of the castle ruins.

Looking over Heidelberg from the castle grounds.

Great view of the city and river below.

Delicious sweets in the afternoon.

No shortage of visitors and locals walking around. 

Locks on a bridge - placed by lovers to symbolize their permanent connection.

One of many beers I enjoyed this summer in Europe.

Perfect lunch!