Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Heidelberg

I lived in Germany in a past life. I was 20 years old and I resided in Furth, a small city near Nuremberg. I was only there for a few weeks, but I lived in an apartment and had a job. So, I don't think of it as just passing through; I lived there. Thanks to a friend who had the right connections, I made gummy bears in Germany in the summer before my junior year in college. How many people get to say that? Then again, how many people would want to be able to say such a thing?

I say it was a past life because it feels so long ago I have virtually no memories of it. I remember a few things very clearly - the angle of the ceiling in the kitchen, the engineer at my factory who drank two beers nearly every day in the cafeteria, attending a Beach Boys concert (they were old then; now they are going on an Asia tour and will be in Singapore soon!). I think I have so few memories because 1) I took very few photos. I had a terrible 110 camera and never carried it around. 2) I did not keep a journal. Needless to say, there were no blogs or social networking sites for me to track my past for quick future recall. 3) I spent the summer with someone with whom I seldom communicated at the time or in the months and years immediately since. I have a pet theory that part of the reason some memories are so vivid is because we recall them through sharing. Then, the memory becomes a combination of the actual event and the multiple recallings and retellings over the years. 

This year I was able to return to Germany for the first time since the summer of 1993. Since my memories are so vague, I have no point of comparison, nothing to be spoiled by inevitable changes. Even better was the fact that H joined me - her first time. Of course, we made comparisons: stretches of road reminded us of Finland or even Iowa. But for the most part, it was a clean set of new memories, which thanks to this post and H, I may remember in 19 years.

This time we were hosted by friends we met in Boulder, who live near Heidelberg. These are some photos of the wonderful few days we spent with them in and around Heidelberg. 

Wonderful selection of breads available at a shop near our friends' place. Great breakfast!

The #5 train, which operates in a loop between Mannheim, Heidelberg and other cities.

I needed the middle t-shirt last time I was in Germany, but not this time.

Enjoying the weather in front of the castle ruins.

Looking over Heidelberg from the castle grounds.

Great view of the city and river below.

Delicious sweets in the afternoon.


No shortage of visitors and locals walking around. 

Locks on a bridge - placed by lovers to symbolize their permanent connection.

One of many beers I enjoyed this summer in Europe.
Perfect lunch!

Sunday, June 24, 2012

Food in Prague


We were less impressed with the food in Prague than the scenery. Goulash seems to be the national dish, yet our favorite meals were at a Thai restaurant. However, the beer was perfect. I believe I drank six brands in three days, including two at a brew pub. Throw in a few very long walks for me and some excellent coffee and desserts for H, and you have an ideal vacation. It was one of my favorites of all time. 

Budweiser - the original - not the US copy
Our first meal
The goulash was OK, but the potato thing at the bottom of the plate was not appealing - so bland and starchy.
Our hotel breakfast - very satisfying
Bread and beer - a hearty combination
Excellent red curry - yes, in Prague. For some reason there are many Thai restaurants and massage places all around the city.
Lovely bread and dessert shop
Much like baumkuchen, this treat is baked while rolling (see the dough in the background)


Prague, Prag, Praha (you get the idea)



I haven't been to Prague since 1993. 19 years is a long time between visits for any place, but the Velvet Revolution, in which Czechoslovakia became democratic (breaking from the Socialist sphere of Soviet influence), had only occurred in 1989, and the Czech Republic (where Prague rests) had just split with Slovakia in January of 1993. A lot has changed, but the city is still beautiful, at least to me. The front desk staff at our hotel didn't see it that way.

On our way out the door one morning we noticed a light drizzle and the darkness that hinted at a long dreary day. We stopped at the front desk to ask T for some assistance.

"This may be a long shot, but do you happen to loan umbrellas?"

"Yes, we do." His voice rose at the end with a cadence that indicated English was not his first language, but that we was comfortable enough to joke in it.

He pulled two umbrellas from behind the desk and slowly opened them to test how well they were working. The first worked well. He closed it and handed it to me.

"Where are you from, T?", I asked, curious to know where his brand of English originated.

"Czech Republic," he answered, as he inspected the second umbrella. "I am from here in the Czech Republic."

The umbrella was slightly broken. He peered deep into the heart of it, sizing up its faults. "Dirty, disgusting and old."

I almost felt sorry for the device that surely had kept many people dry during its life, but which had seen better days.

"What, the umbrella?" I asked.

"No, Prague, the Czech Republic. My country is dirty, disgusting and old."

In a certain light Prague is certainly all of that. However, for many tourists, the dirt represents the centuries of dust that gives this place its charm. The dirt adds authenticity. It hints at dark times under the Nazis and Soviets, and it undermines any claims of Prague as a theme park, cleaned up just for tourist enjoyment. Disgusting? Is he referring to the seamy underbelly that one imagines to be all around? The “casinos” that operate 24 hours a day behind heavy doors and blacked-out glass? The overwhelming presence of groups of men from what appears to be Russia, Poland or the Baltic regions?

Old – no one can deny that Prague is old. But, again, this is what draws so many from around the world. Prague may have been on the adventurous backpacker’s itinerary twenty years ago. Now it is filled with groups of high school and middle school groups from around Europe. Groups of adults of all ages follow guides holding flags and colorful umbrellas, speaking dozens of languages – German, Polish, French, Italian, Spanish, Chinese, and English of the U.S. and U.K. varieties. Strangely missing were the Japanese tour groups that were so common and so frequently discussed in tourism literature from the 1980s onward. The Japanese are in Prague, but they tend to be traveling in pairs or alone. Could the Japanese be the new post-group tourists?

For T, a worldly, humorous, man in his mid-20s, I suppose his country’s age holds little attraction. For a country with so many artists and thinkers who have been globally important and innovative, there is a fine line between clinging to the past and celebrating it. 

Being from elsewhere, we celebrated the "dirty, disgusting and old" streets for three days. At times we struggled to squeeze past the masses of tourists just like us, but overall we loved the long days (sunrise at 5:00am, sunset at around 9:15pm) and the old buildings, many of them with architectural embellishments not commonly seen in most places - statuary seemingly holding up balconies, brightly-colored facades, paintings of designs and figures on a massive scale. It was a wonderful time of the year to be in a beautiful city. 

The first time H has set foot in Prague (and the Czech Republic)
On the Charles Bridge for the first time in 19 years
Some of the "dirty, disgusting and old" sites on the Charles Bridge
Throngs of tourists streaming between the Charles Bridge and the Astronomical Clock at Old Town Square.
Old Town Square (with the tourists cropped out)
Old Town Square with the tourists in the picture
A morning walk to Petrin Hill
H enjoying the morning sunshine 
Prague Castle as seen from Petrin Hill
Prague Castle at night as seen from Charles Bridge
The gate to Charles Bridge
Just some of the wonderful architecture to see around Prague
Antonin Dvorak, one of Prague's native sons, and a one-time resident of my home state, Iowa (in 1893, a century before I first visited his home)
Gorgeous figures painted on random buildings
Colorful, solid buildings everywhere
Prague is sometimes called the City of a Thousand Spires


Monday, June 11, 2012

Cooking class in Vietnam

Fish carmelizes in an earthen dish as the smell of ginger rice fills the room. A dressing of sesame oil and spices comes together before your eyes, and you pour it over a salad of fresh herbs and sweet onions. This is no restaurant, though. You've just finished making these dishes, and you will soon enjoy the freshest Vietnamese food of the trip.

We have seen cooking classes advertised while traveling before - Bali, Hanoi, Melaka. We have even heard of week-long cooking courses in Italy and France. On a recent trip to Saigon we decided to give it a shot: spend an afternoon learning to make a handful of dishes, all from fresh ingredients purchased at the local market. Then enjoy eating those dishes. What could be better? Indeed, what better way to experience a place than to take a cooking class?

We had eaten out for two days in Saigon, but on our last day we wanted to combine traveling with learning, so we could experience something new and take something home besides clothes and photographs.

There are a number of cooking schools in Saigon, all with similar names:

- http://www.saigoncookingclass.com/
- http://www.vietnamsaigoncookingclass.com/
- http://www.vietnamese-cooking-class-saigon.com/

We signed up at the last one, officially known as the Vietnam Cookery Center.

We had hoped to learn to make Pho bo, the beef noodle soup that defines Vietnamese food for many people. However, since we were only there on a Monday, this was our menu:

MONDAY :

  1. 1.Beef fillet salad with tamarind sauce(Goi bo tai me)
  2. 2.Sour snake- head fish soup with vegetables(Canh chua ca loc)
  3. 3.Caramel snake- head fish in clay pot(Ca loc kho to)
  4. 4.Steamed rice with ginger(Com hap gung)
  5. Dessert: Sweet green bean soup with coconut milk(Che dau xanh)
But what a menu! We didn't think "sour snake-head fish soup" sounded appetizing, but it was incredible. The delicate ginger complemented the light texture of the fish. However, the caramelized fish with steamed ginger rice was the real highlight. I would eat it again in a heartbeat. 

Chilis, garlic, and more laid out on the table before we began.
If only the ingredients at home were so well-organized and artistically prepared.
Our interpreter (left) and chef.
1. Beef fillet salad with tamarind sauce(Goi bo tai me)
Enjoying my salad
2. Sour snake- head fish soup with vegetables(Canh chua ca loc)Don't forget the chili!
The soup, ready to serve
3. Caramel snake- head fish in clay pot(Ca loc kho to)
4. Steamed rice with ginger(Com hap gung) Fry the rice to soften it before steaming it.
Two satisfied customers







Friday, May 18, 2012

Trash or Treasure?


One person’s trash is another’s treasure.

The problem is determining the fine line between trash and treasure, and sorting through the trash to find the treasures.

In Minamata, Japan, the citizens, local government and businesspeople have reinterpreted this old adage in a quest to become Japan’s most environmentally conscious city. This means learning from its past industrial pollution to re-think how resources are produced, consumed, and recycled.

I believe the city’s most admirable effort has been to work with citizens to create a waste sorting system that is community-driven and –practiced. It involves sorting waste into 24 categories so that the various items can be easily recycled later. Certain items are collected on particulr days, and one day per month a set of recycling bins is delivered to neighborhoods, where household representatives bring waste to be sorted.

I admire this system because it forces everyone to remain in intimate contact with a purchase through a longer portion of its life cycle. In other words, because used items cannot be immediately thrown in the chute (such as in HDB flats in Singapore), people have to live with their waste, and thus live with their purchases. Consumption becomes an act of thinking through more than just the immediate use of an item, to the long-term washing, storing, and sorting of the item. Some waste is only collected once a month, so one needs to carefully wash and store a glass bottle (for instance) until collection day. Thus, people may think carefully before making purchases that will eventually inconvenience their lives as waste. The official who spoke with us at City Hall stressed that one major change in his purchases is that he no longer buys any PET bottles. They must be carefully washed, and they take up a lot of space in the house before they are collected. Therefore, they are best avoided.
  Above: Lecture at Minamata City Hall regarding its environmental efforts

The city’s other admirable shift has been its addition of a fourth R to the existing three R’s of Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle. Minamata also encourages “Refuse” - refusing items deemed unnecessary, like superfluous packaging and excess plastic bags. While this may make it difficult for some industries to survive due to shifting consumer consciousness, like all businesses, they are expected to evolve to fit consumer demands. In other words, one should not encourage wasteful behavior just to benefit plastic bag manufacturers. If people refuse plastic bags at checkout, manufacturers eventually will evolve to make something else.

Given this spirit of four R’s - Reduce, Reuse, Recycle, and Refuse – Minamata has encouraged not only craftspeople who creatively re-tool waste into useful items, but also industries that turn waste into the raw materials for new goods.

One of the former is Mrs. Yoshimoto, the speaker at the Minamata Disease Museum, who recycles glass into useful objects and art pieces. One of the latter is Mr. Tanaka, President of Tanaka Shop (田中商店水俣営業所). His recycling center employs around 30 people and turns Minamata’s household waste into useful things, like glass bottles that can be re-used by beer and shochu manufacturers, or ground glass that can be incorporated into asphalt to make roads safer (they sparkle at night) and more permeable to moisture.


Mr. Tanaka explaining one of his many business ventures involving previously-designated "trash," which he turns into "treasures."

Tour of the Tanaka facilities

We toured the Tanaka facility and saw how sake bottles are cleaned and inspected, before they can be returned to the bottling facilities. Mr. Tanaka also told us about a project in which wine bottles shipped from France and Germany are cleaned, refilled with sake, and returned to France and Germany. This saves disposing of the old bottles in landfills and manufacturing new bottles for the sake. Plus, it makes for a poetic loop of alcohol. It is feasible that the same bottles could endlessly run through this Europe-Japan cycle, holding wine-sake-wine-sake-wine…

Empty sake bottles before being cleaned inside and out

We enjoyed admiring the shapes and colors of the facility, relieving stress by smashing bottles (to be used in asphalt later), and listening to the refreshing perspective of Mr. Tanaka, who always stresses the business side of his venture. He is clearly not operating this business for the environment or because of a guilty conscious. He wants to make a profit, and he is constantly introducing new items to broaden the company’s reach.

Worker inspecting bottles for debris and cracks.

Clear glass bottles with imperfections. They will be broken and used for many purposes


Lynn sweeping up after smashing a bottle.

It is my hope that our NUS students will be inspired to think about recycling not solely as an altruistic endeavor, but also as a potentially profitable one. This will make the adoption of new practices easier to envision and carry out. Maybe one day Singaporeans will also consider trash to be full of treasures ready to be found and utilized.