Mt. Aso

Day eight of the field study to Japan - May 24, 2011

Our second night at the TAO Retreat Center was very relaxing. There is no traffic noise, and the cool air allowed for a deep sleep after the long tiring day. The female students became particularly close while at TAO. This was due in large part to the building's architecture. While the two men slept on the first floor, the women slept in the large open space of the second floor. According to the students, with no walls or doors to separate them from each other, they interacted in an incredibly open way, breaking down any previous barriers to their friendships. Many compared it to a student retreat and said it has become a cherished memory. This experience may also have enabled them to feel comfortable enough to eventually soak together in the hot springs later in the field study.

The day began with morning exercises, then another delicious breakfast.

Saying a long "itadakimasu" before breakfast.

Saying farewell to TAO.

Around 9:00am we departed the TAO Retreat Center, on our way to Mt. Aso. Exactly one week before this day the volcano began to release dangerous levels of gases, prompting authorities to close access to the mountain. In recent days the off-limits area had gradually become smaller and people could travel closer, as gas levels decreased. We were unsure if we would be able to reach to the top, but we decided to try. To travel from Singapore and not attempt to view the mouth would have been a shame.

Along the way, we saw the majesty of the Aso area, winding down the side of the caldera from Minamit-Oguni, stopping at Aso Shrine, and climbing up the volcano, spotting cows and gorgeous vistas along the way.

Looking down on Ichinomiya-machi, on the way to Mt. Aso.

Aso Shrine

Purchasing amulets

A cool breeze, and students claimed they were "freezing."

Unfortunately, we were unable to travel the last kilometer to the volcano mouth. Because of continued concerns about the gas levels, the road and ropeway were closed for the last leg of the journey. I had hoped to hike the last kilometer to the top, but was the case with the previous day's rain and our desire to participate in farming, nature's unpredictability prevented us from fulfilling our tourist aims.

"Danger!"

"The volcano continues to be very active. Because of the considerable danger, there is no entry to the mountain beyond this point."

Thankfully, we learned a great deal about the volcano at the (albeit outdated) Aso Volcano Museum. Some of the exhibits looked like scenery from a student-run musical - large puffs of cotton used to resemble clouds and mountains made of papier-mâché. In all, however, it was educational, as we learned how volcanoes form, what gases rise from this volcano, how seismologists measure the tremors associated with volcanic eruptions, what flora and fauna exist within this ecosystem, and more.

Instructive display in the Aso Volcano Museum.

After the museum, the students were excited to be able to do something they hadn't done for a full two days: eat meat. After a lunch of soba on Sunday, we only had vegetarian fare at TAO, so several students were experiencing meat withdrawal. For lunch, some people ordered Kumamoto ramen (which includes pork), with a side of fried chicken. Others ordered grilled beef. No one ordered fish. I heard one student complain that she eats meat for every meal, including fried noodles with beef for breakfast. Therefore, the few meat-free days at TAO were very unusual.

Walking at Aso kusa senri

After lunch and some free time to walk around, we hopped in the mini-bus and traveled on to Kurokawa Onsen, stopping only for a few photos at Daikanbo, a viewpoint on the north edge of the caldera.

Students braving the "cold" at Daikanbo.

With the temperature in the low 50s (10-13 C), it was the coldest some students had ever been in their lives, leading to a lot of jumping around and mild complaining. I had come prepared with a fleece and a windbreaker, but I discovered that many students simply don't own such clothing, since they've never been outside Singapore or somewhere cold. One has no reason to own a winter coat if it's never winter.

Next stop, Kurokawa.