Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Anniversary in Bali

It may be a cliche to celebrate an anniversary or honeymoon on a tropical island, but we could think of no better way to commemorate 10 years together than to visit the Indonesian island of Bali, where one can find all of the stereotypical elements of paradise: hot climate, palm trees, beaches, stunning sunsets, exotic local culture, live music. Bali was not always so tourist-friendly, nor did it always have these aspects that make it feel like a Hawai'i of SE Asia. Nowadays, even surfing (a Hawai'ian invention) is a common activity in Bali. We indulged in a list of activities that reads like a computer-generated dating service profile. Likes: long walks on the beach, the feeling of waves washing over my feet, great food, long naps by the pool, massage. 

We spent the first two days in Kuta, a neighborhood on the beach just north of the airport. We took an afternoon flight from Singapore - 2.5 hours - and arrived just after the sun went down. Our taxi took us into the growing darkness, though the streets congested with cars, bicycles, horse-drawn wagons, pedestrians, and most numerous, scooters. The greatest impediment to smooth travel was not the sheer volume of traffic but poor urban planning. As we inched toward the hotel, scooters and pedestrians dodged into the narrowest spaces; anything to keep moving forward. Even though the road was one-way, it did not seem to make the trip any smoother. The upside is that we were able to enjoy one of my favorite activities, people watching. There seemed to be an equal mix of tourists and locals, judging by fashion, ethnicity, and accoutrements - cameras and/or backpacks for the tourists, nothing for the locals. The streets were filled mostly with young people, with an older (and often larger) couple visible every now and then. 

Eventually we reached the hotel, checked in, and sat down to Italian food with live music in front of the hotel. The Bintang beer was cold and refreshing, the pasta cooked well, and the music pleasant but not distracting. 

We woke to a bright morning and went straight breakfast. Next, we had a one-hour massage, which was ridiculously inexpensive (around $10). Then we relaxed by the pool, eventually eating lunch there. 

Relaxing poolside.
Nasi goreng: fried rice flavored with seafood and chicken, topped with egg. 
AlamKulKul: our hotel
Morning walk on the beach
Later in the afternoon, we took a taxi north of Kuta, to a bar/restaurant called Ku De Ta, which had been recommended by a friend and referred to as a "scene" not to be missed. The building is an expansive two-story affair with two long wings that extend out toward the beach, leaving a large grassy square in between. At the edge of the beach rest over a dozen lounge sofas that seat three people each. We arrived 45 minutes before sunset, and the seats were already filling, so we were fortunate to find a spot. We ordered drinks - green apple mojito and strawberry smoothie - and an appetizer - hummus set - and waited for the sunset.
Smoothie and green apple mojito
Waiting for sunset
Four kinds of hummus, including one made with beets (the red one).
The crowd gathering at Ku De Ta.

Finally, we walked back in the darkening evening, eventually stopping for a drink at a spot along the beach where the music was good. The view was of starlight and wave crests. It was a very slow day.



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